By AMC Newton for QHQ

Textiles are all around us, we clothe in them, dry ourselves with them, sit on them, and as such they can go by unnoticed. However, textiles can also be full of wonder and awe, textiles can speak to something inside us. Particularly, if you work in the textile industry or partake in a related craft; you can easily relate to the skill and sheer number of hours pieces can take to make. All of us can appreciate the beauty of textiles which can be memorising. Sometimes, if we are lucky, when we see a particular piece of cloth, we remember why we love textiles so much. That’s why we are launching a six-part series of textiles inspiration from around the world. We hope to ignite that love of textiles in you.

This is all inspired by QHQ’s Kate Berry who, when she visited an exhibition at the Arab institute in Paris in March 2023, was blown away by the textiles on display & it reignited her. love of textiles. The exhibition, which was on from November 2022-4 June 2023 is “Sur les routes de Samarcande merveilles de soie et d’or” (On the Roads of Samarkand. Wonders of Silk and Gold) showcased textiles from Uzbekistan. As Kate’s stunning photographs illustrate so well, these textiles are awe-inspiring, filled with colour, creativity, skill and emotion.

The exhibition displayed artisanal brilliance from 19th & early 20th century Uzbek and demonstrates the role that textiles play in the society’s identity. One technique that is highlighted is Bukura embroidery. During the Emirate of Bukura ,1785-1920, gold embroidery reached its peak fame in terms of quality, technique and creativity. Pieces such as chapans, an overcoat typical of central Asia, dresses, headdresses, and saddle clothes were exclusively made in the Emir’s private workshop. Figs 1-4 show some of this Bukura embroidery.

Fig 1. Examples of Chapans with Bukura Embroidery

Fig 4. Chapan featuring Bukura Embroidery with typical gold thread

The exhibition also showcases world famous Ikats, achieved by a special technique of painting warp threads of a woven fabric prior to weaving showcase a wonder of colour as shown in Fig 5.

Fig 5. Examples of Ikat weaving & other textile techniques

Fig 6-9 show close up of intricate embroidery also on display. One aspect of this exhibition that was particularly impressive was the curation; the textiles were displayed together or individually the lighting and ambience enhancing the features and colours.

What textiles that you have seen recently have inspired you? Has anything you’ve seen reignited your love of textiles?